Starsky & Hutch Diorama — Camera Gear for Close-Up Scale Model Shots

Hey folks,

I'm fixin' to drop my Tribute to Starsky & Hutch Diorama real soon — it was one far-out build, and I know you're gonna like it! But dig this: filming it on my GoPros wasn't exactly righteous, man. Got a bunch of fuzzy footage when I was gettin' up close and personal with the build — those little cams just ain't made for tight shots like that.

GoPros are fantastic action cameras — wide-angle, rugged, and super portable. But they use ultra-wide fisheye lenses optimised for capturing full scenes from a distance. When you push one right up against a 1:24 scale diorama, you end up with barrel distortion, poor subject separation, and almost zero background blur (bokeh). Every tiny dust particle on the base becomes equally sharp as your carefully detailed figurine — which is the opposite of what you want.

What we really need for diorama close-ups is something with a longer focal length (50–100mm equivalent), a reasonably fast aperture (f/2.8 or wider), and genuine manual focus control so you can nail that razor-thin focal plane right on the build's most important detail — a figure's face, the headlights of the Gran Torino, or a weathered street sign.

So I'm layin' it out there, people — what kind of budget-friendly camera should I groove with for those close-up shots where the focus is sharp and the background's got that smooth, dreamy blur? Any solid suggestions would be totally outta sight.

Drop a comment on the YouTube video below or hit me up on socials. I'm thinking something in the mirrorless space — maybe a Sony ZV-E10, a used Fujifilm X-T30, or even a Canon M50 with a cheap 35mm prime. But I'm all ears for what the modelling community is actually using on the workbench.

Watch This Video Now→

Catch the full Starsky & Hutch diorama build-along on the @that70sguy channel.

Stay cool,
✌️

The Build in Detail

Scroll through the diorama images below — and notice how even a good phone camera starts to struggle with depth of field and sharpness at this scale. Imagine what a proper macro lens would unlock.

Starsky and Hutch 1:24 scale diorama featuring two unpainted resin figures standing in front of the iconic red and white Ford Gran Torino, set against a gritty 1970s urban brick alley backdrop with a Hardware store shutter door.

The two 1:24 scale resin figures of Starsky and Hutch in their unpainted primer state, posed against the Gran Torino and the weathered urban alley backdrop. Getting sharp focus on both figures simultaneously required a very narrow depth of field — exactly the challenge a macro-capable camera with a fast prime lens would solve beautifully.

Rear three-quarter view of the weathered 1:24 scale red Ford Gran Torino in the Starsky and Hutch diorama, surrounded by detailed street debris including Castrol oil drums, wooden crates, and a Hedman Hedders box on a realistic cobblestone base.

The rear three-quarter angle of the Gran Torino shows off the incredible depth of the scene — weathered oil drums, scattered rubbish, and period-correct signage. A camera with genuine bokeh capability would let the car stay razor-sharp while that background melts into a painterly blur, exactly the cinematic look this build deserves.

Low-angle close-up of the Starsky and Hutch 1:24 scale diorama street scene featuring a weathered red fire hydrant, rusted steel drum, cardboard box, and Jimmy Carter newspaper prop in the foreground, with the red Gran Torino and Hardware store in the background.

Ground-level close-up of the street scatter — a rusted fire hydrant, corroded barrel, and a crumpled newspaper prop that reads "Jimmy Carter — If Kennedy Runs." This kind of foreground storytelling is where macro photography absolutely shines: a dedicated mirrorless camera or a DSLR with a 60mm macro lens would render every scratch and grime streak with stunning clarity.

Quick Guide: Camera Settings for Scale Model Photography

Aperturef/4 to f/8 for 1:24 scale. Wider (f/2.8) gives dreamy bokeh but very shallow focus — great for hero shots. Stop down to f/8 for full-scene sharpness.

Focal Length50–100mm (full-frame equivalent) minimises distortion and gives pleasing compression. A 60mm macro is the sweet spot for tabletop dioramas.

ISOKeep it as low as possible (ISO 100–400). Use a tripod and remote shutter — even breathing can cause micro-blur at macro distances.

LightingDaylight-balanced LED panels at 45° angles eliminate harsh shadows. The diorama's own built-in LEDs add atmosphere — balance them with a fill light.

White BalanceSet manually to avoid the camera shifting between shots. Tungsten (~3200K) matches warm LED strip lighting used in most diorama builds.

Tribute to Starsky & Hutch Diorama — Camera Gear for Close-Up Shots

The Build in Detail

Quick Guide: Camera Settings for Scale Model Photography

Camera Gear for Diorama Close-Ups